This was a family holiday to Isla Cristina on the Guadiana estuary, which is on the border with Portugal. Birdwatching time was limited to about three hours most mornings (while the rest of the family were still in bed), and perhaps a couple of hours in the late afternoons if I was lucky. However, our villa was in the middle of a nature reserve which was basically a narrow strip of sand dunes covered in scattered Stone Pine and Eucalyptus trees and Tamarisk bushes. There was a lot of wildlife interest here, including a healthy population of Chameleons, and a few interesting resident birds. The weather during our stay was very hot and sunny, with temperatures peaking at around 40’C in the middle of the holiday, and generally in the region of 34’C. The owner of our villa (who was staying in the villa next door), told us that during the middle of the holiday, the winds were coming from the Sahara, and this may account for the apparent arrival of dragonflies during that period, as will be discussed later.

1 - The Wildlife sites

Isla Cristina is on the Guadiana estuary, which forms the border with Portugal. On both sides of the river there is excellent salt marsh (marismas) and salt pans (salinas). The International bridge and the close proximity of Isla Cristina to the border, makes commuting between the two sides very easy. Before I began compiling this report, I did consider splitting it into two reports, one for the Spanish side and the other for the Portuguese side, but this didn’t seem to be the correct approach, because I wanted to emphasis the richness and variety of the Guadiana estuary as a whole. Birds do not distinguish between the Portuguese side and the Spanish side, and to be honest, commuting was so easy, I barely distinguished between the two myself.

To the east and west of the Guadiana there are other tremendous wildlife sites, including Ria Formosa (Faro) in Portugal and Marismas del Odiel (Huelva) and Donana in Spain, the latter being possibly the top wildlife site in Europe and only 90 minutes drive from Isla Cristina. However, I resisted the temptation to rush off to Donana, because I was told that in August, most of the accessible parts would be largely dried up and that there would be probably just as much, if not more interest around the Guadiana, for much less effort. It also meant that I could spend more of my limited time birding rather than travelling. I did decide to visit Marismas del Odiel because it was only 35 minutes drive and was a top site which I had never visited before.

Guadiana estuary

I spent most of my time here, and will describe it in more detail than the other sites, splitting it into sub sites.

Marismas de Isla Cristina, Isla Cristina salinas

These salinas, some of which are still working, are easily visible on either side of the road on the drive into Isla Cristina from the north. They were particularly good at high tide when they often held impressive numbers of waders and gulls.

Marismas de Isla Cristina, Via Verde

The footpath known as the Via Verde (or Green way) follows the course of a disused railway line which runs from way beyond the boundaries of Isla Cristina in the east to Ayamonte in the west. For the purposes of this report, it runs from the village of  La Redondela to Ayamonte, a distance of about 10 miles, skirting the northern most edge of the Marismas de Isla Cristina. It is popular especially with cyclists. The road from the north into Isla Cristina crosses the Via Verde just south of the village of Pozo de Camino, and it was here that I parked the car and on various days walked either east or west. I found the western path most productive, and this way especially allows excellent views over the marismas and disused salinas, and has the added advantage of some nice woodland behind it.

Marismas de Isla Cristina, Punta del Moral

Punta del Moral is about one mile as the Flamingo flies from Isla Cristina, but due to the channels and sea inlets, requires a drive of about 15 miles, and it was almost easier to get to Marismas del Odiel, over 30 miles away to the east! Take any road into Ayamonte, and then head south, following signs for Isla de Canela and then Isla del Moral. Immediately before the start of the town of Isla del Moral, there is a sandy track on the left. Park at the start of this track and walk down the causeway to view the salinas in front of you. Some guide books will tell you that you can drive down here, but I walked and was glad that I did, because after about a mile the track was blocked with huge bolders, and turning would have been almost impossible on the narrow track. You can walk for miles here, but I turned back after reaching a small hide overlooking the salinas.

Marismas de Isla Cristina, Playa del Hoyo dunes

Take the coast road east out of Isla Cristina, towards Islantilla, and Playa del Hoyo beach is clearly signposted on the right after a couple of miles. The dunes at the back of the beach are part of a nature reserve with scattered Stone Pine and Eucalyptus trees and Tamarisk bushes. Our villa was in these dunes.

Castro Marim (Portugal), Western salinas

Castro Marim will be well known to many visitors to Portugal, and is perhaps the best known part of the Guadiana estuary. I approached the western salinas by driving about  a mile to the south of the town on the road to Villa Real de Santo Antonio, and taking one of the tracks to the west of the road, just before the river on your right. Park in a convenient spot and walk around the salinas.

Castro Marim (Portugal), Eastern salinas

I found the eastern salinas to be the most productive. If arriving from Spain, take the first exit after the bridge and head north signposted Beja. After about 100m there is a track on the right, which you should take, which eventually takes you under the main highway and brings you out at a car park. It is signposted as a nature reserve. From here you can walk along various footpaths and tracks. There is a white building on top of a small hill, which allows excellent views over the adjacent salinas. Continue past the white building for about half a mile, then take a track to the east, and you will come to the area where I saw both Lesser short-toed Lark and Little Bustard.

Marismas del Odiel, Huelva

This is a large site, much bigger than the Guadiana estuary (though much of it is inaccessible) almost completely surrounding the city of Huelva. The main marismas are on the west bank of the river Odiel, immediately opposite Huelva. The site is well signposted as a nature reserve, and look for signs to “Don Juan I”. I approached the site from the west, taking the main highway, the E1, past Cartaya, until I came to the junction for Aljaraque. Leave the E1 here and follow the signs to  Aljaraque and then Corrales. Eventually you will come to a roundabout which will be signposted Huelva left and Punta Umbria right, but also “Don Juan I” straight ahead. The road now takes you past a series of working salinas and after about a mile, you will see a restaurant on your left. About 100m past the restaurant is the reserve visitor centre and car park. There are various walks you can take from here and a hide, or you can continue driving along a rapidly narrowing piece of land, which eventually is little more than a road with water either side. It’s worth taking this road for as far as you can because it is excellent for shore birds. Marismas de Odiel has one of the largest Spoonbill colonies in Europe, around 300 pairs, but I didn’t see a single Spoonbill during my visit!

Laguna de el Portil

This is a large lake, which in some guide books is lumped together with Marismas de Odiel. However it is unique in the area because it is fresh water, and attracted many species which I struggled to see elsewhere. It’s easy to find the laguna in the town, you can’t miss it as you drive through, but it is best approached from the east. As you approach the town, slow down, there is a one way service road on the right which runs parallel to the main road, which you need to take just after you enter the town. If you get it right, the laguna is immediately on your right, there is easy parking and there is an observation platform. Miss the turning for the service road and you will find yourself heading out of town, with nowhere to turn round and even if you could, the service road is one way so you can’t come back down it. There is a footpath all around the laguna, which is good for woodland species and worth taking, but nowhere do you get a better view of the lake than on the viewing platform.

Islantilla Golf Course

Islantilla golf course is signposted on the inland side of the main coast road through Islantilla.

Vilamoura

A large tourist resort in Portugal which is outstanding for wildlife, but is really beyond the scope of this report. We had a family day out here, and apart from one five minute stop, which was greeted with groans, I didn’t do any birding, but it’s impossible to visit the place without seeing some good birds, and it is mentioned in this report, especially in relation to dragonflies.

2 – Birds

The outstanding feature of the holiday was the passage and shear number of waders that were present on the salinas and marismas. In all I saw 23 species of wader, and many including Turnstone, Curlew Sandpiper and Bar-tailed Godwit were still in spectacular summer plumage.

Wader highlights included the amazing sight of 126 Kentish Plovers and 76 Black-winged Stilts on a salina about half the size of a football pitch at Marismas de Isla Cristina. Other species moving through in good numbers included Sanderling, Curlew Sandpiper, Grey Plover, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Sandpiper and Dunlin.

The star birds of the holiday were two drake White-headed Ducks at Laguna de el Portil, where there was also a drake Ferruginous Duck and an impressive flock of 76 Black Terns. Other good birds included three Little Bustards and two Lesser short-toed Larks at Castro Marim, Red-necked Nightjar at Playa del Hoyo and Caspian Tern at Punta del Moral. In total I saw 102 species. Below is a full list of species seen.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Generally seen in small numbers across the marismas, but there was a remarkable flock of over 100 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Great  Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Two at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th, and one at Vilamoura (Portugal) on 25th.

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
Two at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Three at Marismas del Odiel on 24th and one at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
One on the river near the western salinas at Castro Marim on 23rd, and another was a surprise on a pool on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Small numbers across the marismas, with the biggest counts being 20 at Marismas del Odiel on 24th and 15 at Castro Marim on 25th.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Quite disappointing numbers generally, with just the odd bird seen here and there, but there was an impressive flock of 80 at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on the 25th.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Common at all the marismas.

White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Present in small numbers on all of the marismas, with the largest flock being 28 at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 24th. Lots of posts and towers have storks nests on top in the region.

Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
The biggest disappointment of the holiday was difficulty I had in seeing Spoonbills. Considering that I visited one of the largest Spoonbill colonies in Europe at Marismas del Odiel, three flying over the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th and one over Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd was a poor return.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
Seen daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina in flocks of 20 or 30. The largest flocks were 800 at the western salinas, Castro Marim on 23rd, and 500 at Marismas del Odiel on 24th. Also of note was a flock of 100 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Mute Swan  Cygnus olor
Two on a golf course at Vilamoura (Portugal) during a very brief visit.

Gadwall Anas strepera
Five at the visitor centre, Marismas del Odiel on 24th and over 100 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Teal Anas crecca
Four at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Small numbers across the marismas, but the largest flock was 200 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Shoveler Anas clypeata
One at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocophala
Two males at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Pochard Aythya ferina
Over 100 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
One drake at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Only three singles, one from the Via Verde at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 22nd, at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th and at Marismas del Odiel on 26th.

Buzzard Buteo buteo
One at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
A dark morph bird was over the woods at the back of the Via Verde at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd, and a light morph bird was over fields near the town of Cartaya on 26th.

Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
One Castro Marim on 25th.

Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
A covey of 30 were at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Very small numbers on the marismas, but there were about 50 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio
Two were seen on a brief visit to Vilamoura (Portugal) on 25th. Three adults and two juveniles were at the visitor centre hide at Marismas del Odiel on 24th and 26th.

Coot Fulica atra
About 10 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th and 26th with 50 at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th, but by far the highest numbers were on the river near the western salinas at Castro Marim, with over 1000 on 23rd.

Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
Three males were flushed from the side of the track next to the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus
Very scarce, with just three at Marismas del Odiel on 24th and one flew over Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
A common bird on all the marismas, with over 50 recorded daily from Marismas de Isla Cristina, and a flock of 76 at a high tide roost on one particular salina.

Avocet            Recurvirostra avosetta
Not particularly common, with for example only one bird seen on two dates at Marismas de Isla Cristina, but there were flocks of 120 at the western salinas, Castro Marim on 23rd, 25 at the eastern salinas Castro Marim on 25th and 15 at Marismas del Odiel on 26th.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Small numbers on the marismas almost daily, with 20 at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 22nd. Ten were at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Good numbers on the marismas, with at least 30 recorded most days at Marismas de Isla Cristina, and over 100 at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
As numerous in this area as any other area I have ever visited. There were daily counts of over 50 at Marismas de Isla Cristina, peaking at 126 on a single salina over high tide on 28th. 60 were counted at Marismas del Odiel on 24th, and 30 at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Up to 30 were at Marismas de Isla Cristina daily, ten at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th, and 150 at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Red Knot Calidris canutus
Just a single bird seen, at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd.

Sanderling Calidris alba
Around 30 were seen daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina, with 50 on 19th, and at least 50 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Little Stint Calidris minuta
Small numbers seen daily at all the marismas.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
50 daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina, and 50 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Dunlin Calidris alpina
100 daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina, and 100 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Ruff Philomachus pugna
A single bird was at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Up to ten daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina, and ten at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Present daily on Marismas de Isla Cristina, with 20 on 20th. 50 were at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th, and 20 at Marismas del Odiel on 26th.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
50 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Single birds seen regularly at Marismas de Isla Cristina, and ten at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Curlew Numenius arquata
Recorded regularly across the marismas in single figures, but a flock of 50 was at Punta del Moral over high tide on 24th.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
Two were seen from the visitor centre hide at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Redshank Tringa tetanus
A common bird across all the marismas, with daily counts of 50 at Marismas de Isla Cristina. 100 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Odd birds were seen or heard daily, with five at Punta del Moral on 24th, and three at Marismas del Odiel also on 24th.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Just two sightings, both from Marismas de Isla Cristina, with five seen from the Via Verde on 21st and one on 23rd.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Present in small numbers daily, almost everywhere, with 15 at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Present in small numbers across the marismas, with a maximum of 100 at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
200 – 300 daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina with 500 at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans
Around 100 daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina with 500 at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
An adult was at Punta del Moral on 24th.

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Singles were at Marismas de Isla Cristina on several dates, and three were at the western salinas Castro Marim on 23rd.

Little Tern Sterna albifrons
20 – 50 were seen daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina.

Black Tern Chlidonias niger
An impressive flock of 60 was at Laguna de el Portil on 26th, and by 28th it had grown to 76. A single bird was seen from the Via Verde at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 21st.

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Fairly common around buildings. About 20 were resident around our villa at Playa del Hoyo.

Barn Owl Tyto alba
One was seen on a fence post next to the coast road, just outside Islantilla on 20th.

Little Owl Athene noctua
One was on the white building at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus
A bird was flying over heath land at El Empalme, north of Isla Cristina, at dawn on 29th. 

Red-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis
One was flushed from the ground in Stone Pine woodland on the inland side of the coast road, near Playa del Hoyo, on 28th.

Swift Apus apus
A common bird throughout, at least 100 were seen daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina.

Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
100 were at Laguna de el Portil on 28th, with 50 there on 26th. The only other record was of one at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th, though I probably overlooked quite a few.

Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Singles were seen on three dates at Marismas de Isla Cristina, at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th and at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Good numbers were seen at a number of locations throughout the holiday, and birds did seem to be passing through at Playa del Hoyo, with regular counts of 20 - 40 overhead, usually heading east.

Hoopoe Upupa epops
A very common bird in the area, seen daily in double figures. The watered golf course at Islantilla seemed to provide them with ideal habitat, and every fairway and green had several birds on 27th.

Green Woodpecker Picus viridis
One or two were seen or heard at Playa del Hoyo on several occasions, and one was at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Great Spotted Woodpecker  Dendrocopos major
One was at Islantilla Golf Course on 27th, and another at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens
Two at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Crested Lark  Galerida cristata
Not particularly common, I saw or heard them daily in ones or twos at Marismas de Isla Cristina, with ten on 21st, and also ten at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

House Martin Delichon urbicum
Common everywhere, with 100 – 200 daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina.

Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common everywhere, with 100 – 200 daily at Marismas de Isla Cristina.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Present daily in small numbers at Marismas de Isla Cristina, especially at the dunes of Playa del Hoyo which may indicate a passage. The highest count was 10 on 21st.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava iberiae
The Spanish race of the Yellow Wagtail was a common bird on the marismas, though not usually in large numbers. 30 were seen from the Via Verde at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd, 15 were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th, and 10 were at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Two juveniles were on the lawn of the visitor centre at Marismas del Odiel on 24th, but no adults were seen.

Robin Erithacus rubecula
One was on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
One was in the dunes at Playa del Hoyo on 24th.

Stonechat Saxicola torquata
Quite common at Marismas de Isla Cristina, with 20 on 23rd. Also seen at Castro Marim, with five at the western salinas on 23rd, and five at the eastern salinas on 25th.

Blackbird Turdus merula
A common bird throughout, especially in the woods at Playa del Hoyo.

Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
Four were on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti
One or two birds were heard at Islantilla Golf Course on 27th and at Laguna de el Portil on 26th and 28th.

Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
Not as common here as it is in other parts of Iberia I have visited, or perhaps they are just not as obvious in August. However, they were seen in small numbers across the marismas, with 20 at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd, three at the western salinas, Castro Marim also on 23rd and three at Marismas del Odiel on 24th.

Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
One was a surprise find, drinking from a stream with other warblers on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata
One at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
A common bird more-or-less everywhere, from the dunes of Playa del Hoyo to the marismas. I counted 20 on a walk along the Via Verde at Marismas de Isla Cristina on 23rd.

Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Three were at Laguna de el Portil on 26th, and five at Islantilla Golf Course on 27th. May have been overlooked at other places.

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Two were at Playa del Hoyo dunes on 26th, with four on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th and two at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Five at Laguna de el Portil on 26th, with 20 there on 28th, and one at Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
The only record is of four at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Great Tit Parus major
The only record is of two at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Crested Tit Parus cristatus
Three on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th and three at Laguna de el Portil on 28th.

Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
One at Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Southern Grey Shrike            Lanius meridionalis
Occasional birds were seen across the marismas, with two at Punta del Moral on 24th, three from the Via Verde also on 24th and two at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Occasional birds were seen across the marismas, with four at Playa del Hoyo dunes on 20th, and five from the Via Verde on the 21st.

Magpie Pica pica
Three were at Playa del Hoyo dunes on 20th.

Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyana
A common bird, especially around the Stone Pine woodlands. Was seen particularly well at Playa del Hoyo dunes, where there was a flock of at least 30, Islantilla Golf Course which had at least 70, and Laguna de el Portil with at least 20. Not always easy to see, especially in the midday heat, but usually performed fairly well around picnic areas or in the mornings and evenings, allowing very good views. The species seemed to avoid the marismas, but there were a few in the woodlands behind the Via Verde.

Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
A common species in the area, but not always easy to see, and not in big flocks. Ten were at Marismas del Odiel on 24th, ten at Laguna de el Portil on 28th, and they were seen daily around Playa del Hoyo dunes.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus
A common species around Human habitation, the largest flocks were 100 from the Via Verde on the 23rd and 100 on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Occasionally heard in the woodlands, but not daily.

Corn Bunting  Emberiza calandra
Two were at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on the 25th.

3 - Reptiles and amphibians

Surprisingly perhaps, given the heat, I saw very few reptiles (with the exception of Chameleons) and even less amphibians. Perhaps it was just too hot for them.

Marsh Frog Rana ridibunda
About 20 were in pools on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Chameleon Chamaeleo chameleon
One of the highlights of the holiday was the good numbers of Chameleons we saw in the dunes at Playa del Hoyo. Almost without exception they were seen in Tamarisk bushes which were close to low pine trees, usually towards the ridge of the dunes. I was delighted to find them so easily, after several failed attempts in the past in Portugal. I found them on nearly every day that I looked, and found four adults on 26th, and three babies on 19th. In total, I saw at least 14 different Chameleons.

Moorish Gecko Tarentola mauritanic
At least eight, including two babies, could be seen on the walls of our villa at Playa del Hoyo at night.

Large Psammodromus Psammodromus algiru
I saw a few lizards scurry away in the dunes at Playa del Hoyo, but only managed to positively identify one, which was clearly this species, on 28th.

4 - Dragonflies

There seemed to be a genuine migration of dragonflies during the period, especially noticeable at Playa del Hoyo dunes. For the first few days I recorded not a single dragonfly from this area, until suddenly in the middle of the holiday, coinciding with a stiff southerly breeze, there was an influx of Red-veined Darters. The following day, these had been replaced by lots of Broad Scarlets (Scarlet Darters) and a single Lesser Emperor. By the end of the holiday, these had all vanished, and the dunes were again devoid of dragonflies. I managed to successfully identify ten species of dragonfly during the period.

Iberian Bluetail Ischnura graellsii
I managed to identify several Iberian Bluetails on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th. Probably also seen at mini golf at Vilamoura on 25th.

Green-eyed (Norfolk) Hawker Aeshna isosceles
One on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Emperor          Anax imperator
One on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Lesser Emperor Anax parthenope
One at Playa del Hoyo on 26th.

Black-tailed Skimmer Orthetrum cancellatum
One on Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

Epaulet Skimmer Orthetrum chrysostigma
One on the mini golf course at Vilamoura on 25th.

Long Skimmer Orthetrum trinacria
One at Laguna de el Portil on 26th.

Common Darter Sympetrum striolatum
Ten at Playa del Hoyo on 26th.

Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombii
One on Marismas de Isla Cristina from the Via Verde on 20th followed by 20 at Playa del Hoyo on 24th, and one at the western salinas, Castro Marim on 23rd.

Broad Scarlet (Scarlet Darter) Crocothemis erythraea
One at the western salinas, Castro Marim on 23rd and 20 at the mini golf Vilamoura on 25th. There then followed what seemed to be a genuine influx, with ten at Playa del Hoyo dunes (apparently completely unsuitable habitat for the species) on 26th and an amazing 100 at Islantilla Golf Course on 27th.

5 - Moths

On several nights I ran a homemade moth trap at the villa using a card board box and a 20w low energy bulb, and recorded the following species:

Pine Processionary – at least 20 every night. Goodness knows how many I would have got if I had used a real bulb!

Small Mottled Willow – 2

Pearly Underwing 1

Vestal – 1

Small Ranunculus - 1

Quite a few macros which I couldn’t identify, including various waves. Lots of pyralids which I couldn’t identify, with the exception of the stunning Cynaeda Dentalis.

6 - Mammals

I was delighted to see two Iberian Hares (Lepus granatensi) at the eastern salinas, Castro Marim on 25th.

7 - Conclusion

I spent most of my time around the Guadiana estuary, with a few excursions to Laguna de el Portil and Marismas del Odiel. It was an excellent area to visit at the end of August, because being tidal, there was lots of water around and it was unaffected by any drought. Although there are most likely threats to the area from the ever expanding tourist industry, every site I visited was a nature reserve, and there seemed to be an understanding and desire to conserve wildlife and habitat.

Having visited Castro Marim before, on several visits to Portugal, it was great to see it in a new light, as just another part of the Guadiana estuary.

Both Isla Cristina and Islantilla are very Spanish, and we hardly heard a single other language spoken, least of all English, and the waiters even seemed to struggle with words like “beer”! Islantilla was the most lively of the two resorts, with plenty of restaurants and a small shopping centre, but even this would be described as “quiet” in most holiday brochures. There was certainly no “Trotters Bar”, or even anywhere to watch Premiership football.