Tuesday 3rd May:

El Ports Mountains, Barranc de la Galera and Mont Caro

18. The weather looked settled and fine so we made for the hills in the guise of El Ports. This is a mountainous area, including Mont Caro (1442m), to the North West of Sant Carles. Our hosts at Hostal Agusti recommended the Barranc de la Galera, accessed via Mas de Babarans, for its beauty, landscape drama and its birds.

Barranc de la Galera             Photo: Angela Gowdy

Upper Barranc de la Galera, El Ports Tim Marshall     

19. We headed North to Amposta, then inland to Santa Barbara and Mas de Barbarans. As we drove through the olive and orange groves, the terrain got increasingly rugged and dry. Over head we spotted a Black Kite, again over a rubbish dump and a Montague’s Harrier, at close quarters.  Had we stopped in this area the tally would have been higher but the distant peaks drew us on.

20. We took the track into the Barranc de la Galera and soon climbed up through a dramatic valley of mixed woodland, mainly Holme Oak and then Pine. The river was dry and scattered amongst the trees were small clearings and olive groves. Periodic stops revealed a variety of passerines including many singing Nightingales, Blackcap, Chaffinch and Cirl Buntings. Further on our first sight of soaring Griffon Vulture led to another pull in where we soaked up the many bird calls, the beautiful woodland and the sunshine. Some spotted a probable Western Orphean Warbler take off through the trees. There was a lot more to do but we all wanted to linger. Ravens were soaring high up along the cliff tops. At closer quarters, we found Great Tit in quite large numbers, Pied Flycatcher and Firecrest. A Sparrowhawk passed overhead. Trevor and Wilson disappeared into a small olive grove where Trevor was determined to find a Wryneck he had heard calling. We spent time listening and looking for the first of many Sardinian Warblers. Crag Martins coursed in front of the cliffs ahead. Further on again the valley opened up to give some spectacular long views. In a small tree by the road, a close Subalpine Warbler prompted another stop. We saw more Firecrest, a Spotted Flycatcher and Wren. A further scan of the cliffs revealed a high Red-Billed Chough and Blue Rock Thrush as well as distant Spanish Ibex. High on the skyline a male Ibex stood out, with its large horns curling up, against the blue sky.

Spanish Ibex (f) and kid
Photo: Hilary MacBean

21. We reached a picnic spot as a large European Red Squirrel crossed our path and disappeared into the trees. Griffon Vultures circled a huge rock on the skyline, which we labelled “The Head”. The picnic place and the adjacent, surface flowing, river were oddly bereft of birds, so we retraced our steps down the valley and headed to the Mont Caro road.

22. This involves a steep climb through a variety of habitat zones, to the summit of Mont Caro (1442m). Our first stop was an interesting, dry gulley at the foot of the climb. Again, this seemed oddly quiet and the Black Wheatear and Western Orphean Warbler we hoped for were absent. A patient walk up a dry valley revealed nesting pairs of Black Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher and Blue Rock Thrush and as we returned to the cars, a nice male Black-Eared Wheatear turned up amongst the rocky scrub.

 
Monument a la Cabra Salvatge               

Hairpins on Mont Caro
Photos: Hilary MacBean and Tim Marshall

23. Higher up, we stopped to admire the endless hairpin bends and an impressive male Ibex, this time a statue at the Monument a la Cabra Salvatge, mounted at the head of a fine limestone column. Who ever got him up there was brave indeed. He made a splendid sight, with the Ebro Valley dropping away behind. Up the slope, Tim spotted a Rock Bunting and most of us saw its tail as it disappeared into the scrub. Sadly, it failed to show again.

  

Juvenile Short-Toed Eagle                          Large Psammodromus Lizard
Photos: Tim Marshall

24. At the summit we expected a cold wind but T-shirt weather prevailed. The view was stupendous and we soon saw a number of Griffon Vultures soaring round, above and below us. This was a good place for a raptor watch and we saw two Honey Buzzard,on passage and an adult Bonelli’s Eagle and a juvenile Short-Toed Eagle, with some debate over the latter’s identity. A Red-Billed Chough flew in below us and was calling from an invisible perch. We returned to the montane pine forest below, at el Mascar, where the elevation and cooler, temperate conditions allow for a familiar range of passerines (Blackbird, Robin, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Coal Tit, Crested Tit and Woodpigeon). Common Kestrels frequently occurred, at all levels.

On the way back we paid more attention to the valley olive groves, particularly those that looked a little neglected, with a scrubby under-storey. Sharp sighted Trevor saw three Golden Orioles speed away and we searched a derelict building for a Hoopoe hole, concluding that the old olive trees themselves provided the best nest holes. A Wood Chat Shrike showed well and we all enjoyed the call of a Corn Bunting, common in Spain, but sorely missing in our own countryside.       

What an impressive day, with striking landscapes and a good range of birds.

Wednesday 4th May

25. The weather was calm, warm and sunny, perfect for a trip to the Lleida Steppes (or “pseudo steppes”, the true steppes being in Aragon, to the West); a drive 130km to the North. By now the group had realised that, with Hilary planning and navigating, our itinerary was nothing if not adventurous! The Lleida Steppes are a plateau area of low intensity sheep and cereal farming lying to the South of Lleida City, interspersed with the farming there are rock outcrops and uncultivated scrub, criss-crossed with gullies and small river valleys. The area is famous for Sandgrouse, Bustards and Larks. We were thwarted by a flat battery before we left town but, that sorted, we set off full of anticipation. We were further thwarted by a serious coach crash that held us up for two hours on the C12 North. During our enforced stop we listened to Nightingales and Trevor heard Stone Curlew from across the fields. As we drove into the steppes area we saw a nice Little Owl perched on a small building and Lesser Kestrel swooped overhead. We finally got to the Canal d’Urgell, just north of Alfes Aerodrome, in time for lunch.

Canal d’Urgell, Lleida
Photo: Hilary MacBean

26. This was a lovely quiet spot. We were temporarily stumped by the contact call of a Nightingale. That resolved, we saw distant Bee-eater and started to search round for the Lesser Grey Shrike, for which this place is known. A walk into a pine wood revealed Common Cuckoo and great views of a Greater Spotted Cuckoo, a first for most of us. Amongst others, Nightingale, Goldfinch and Serin all sang and we heard a Scops Owl, learning later that they do strike up during the day. We walked along an idyllic canal path, listening for Golden Oriole and looking for Shrikes.

27. A van pulled up in a cloud of dust and the occupant was very eager to help us. He was Juan Castillo, a field ecologist, studying Sandgrouse on the steppes. He informed us that there are no longer Lesser Grey Shrike at the locus, the nearest and only remaining Catalonian pair being 50 Kms away, to the North East. Too far for us. He also thought it would be another 10 days before the Golden Orioles would be heard.  He talked about the Pin-Tailed and Black-Bellied Sandgrouse, there being only around 120 of the former and 20+ of the latter left on the Lleida steppe. He pointed us in the direction of the water pool identified by David Gosney and the Mas de Melons. He thought we should see Little Bustard, as they are quite common. Great Bustard are rare and better seen further west. He sped off and we continued, picking up Lesser Kestrel, a party of 8 Cattle Egret, 2 White Storks flying high over us, 2 Short-Toed Eagle, a Black Kite and a Spoonbill. Closer to hand we saw Greenfinch, Spotless Starling, Swallow, House Martin, Whinchat, Cirl Bunting, Melodious Warbler and Northern Wheatear. This was quite a haul, despite the regrettable absence of Lesser Grey Shrike. 

28. We moved to the steppe area south of the aerodrome and scanned the area. We had good views of a large population of Calandra Lark and regretted the absence of Dupont’s Lark, that used to be seen in this area, but no more. A Hare popped up and a number of Crested Lark showed well.  A falcon that, after some discussion, we concluded to be Red-Footed Falcon, flew over. We heard our first Little Bustard.

29. We spent time near the watering pool but knew it was too late in the day for the Sandgrouse. We continued to hear the odd Little Bustard but try as we might, we could not pick one out. Perhaps the barley was getting a bit too high.  We saw Hoopoe, Woodpigeon, Iberian Grey Shrike and both Common and Greater Spotted Cuckoos, presumably targeting Larks nests.

30. We returned via Rui Sett a small river valley on the South of the steppes. This is a beautiful setting but a shortage of time prevented more than the briefest search. Red-Rumped Swallow, Spotted Flycatchers, Bee-eaters and an enticing assemblage of bird song emitted from the stand of mature White Poplars by the river. The Black Wheatear on the left-hand rocky slopes failed to materialise but we pushed on to return West from Castelldans, via a long and rocky track through the Val de Matxerra, in the Mas de Melons. This was a slightly risky venture for the vehicles and drivers, 4 x 4’s would have been better, but well worth it. A Jackdaw (unusual here) mobbed a juvenile Golden Eagle that we continued to encounter as we moved west. We stopped briefly to admire a close Bee-eater colony in a sand bank and a nearly dry pool was an obvious attraction for a number of birds including Black-Eared Wheatear and possible warblers, in a small reed bed in the pool. There was no time stop investigate further.

Greater Spotted Cuckoo
Photo: Tim Marshall

31. A Greater Spotted Cuckoo pair showed really well in a small tree by the track and we saw Thekla Lark in the rocky areas. Despite our continuing efforts, we saw no Sandgrouse. There were many Magpies in the area, no doubt predating the bird community. As we came over a brow, a brilliant red poppy field came in to view, enhanced by back-lighting, through the petals, as the sun set. This was a stunning sight and end to another wonderful day.

Poppy field on Lleida Steppe
Photo: Tim Marshall

32. Delays meant we had to miss the Utexa Reservoir, Sebes Reserve and Flix Meandre. The latter looked promising from the bridge at Flix; one for another visit. As we drove back in the evening sun, we enjoyed spectacular views of the Ebro River. A fine male Golden Oriole flew across, to top off the day.

Thursday 5th May

33. Two ventures inland and a lot of kilometres by car, over the previous two days, led to a vote to return to South Delta, especially as we had not yet got to the I’lla de Buda, at the mouth of the Ebro. Despite this, a return to the mountains in pursuit of Egyptian Vulture, Citril Finch, Rock Sparrow and better views of Rock Bunting and Western Orphean Warbler, were tempting to some, but would have to be reserved for another visit.

34. We headed through the increasingly flooded rice fields, towards I’lla de la Buda, on the way picking up some of the wetland species seen on Sunday and Monday. At the North West corner of the Migjorn Arm, a small but attractive reed bed reserve has been developed with perimeter paths, perhaps off-setting some of the disappointment of no public access into the I’lla de la Buda Reserve itself (other than by boat from the north bank of the Ebro). The small reserve appears to form the outer most point of the new pathway along the south side of the Ebro River. This area was dominated by Reed Warbler, as opposed to the Great Reed Warbler, found elsewhere. There was no sign of the Penduline Tits mentioned on the information board, but we obtained good views of Wood Chat Shrike, Whinchat, Redstart and a mixed Willow Warbler and Chiff Chaff flock, on passage. A Garden Warbler was heard. Zitting Cisticola were every where, as were Moorhen and Coot. There where no Red-Knobbed Coot. Perhaps these are restricted to I’lla de la Buda proper?

35. A nice pair of Little Bittern and a Purple Swamphen bounced out of the reeds. Greenshank and Redshank were visible in the adjacent rice fields and Gull-Billed Terns were about. Along the canal we searched for Penduline Tit in the over-hanging trees but without success. Very large Carp showed in the irrigation ditch and a feeding flock of 10 Glossy Ibis showed well in the fields.

I’lla de la Buda Reserve from Mas de Buda
Photo: Tim Marshall

36. At the tall observation tower at Mas de Buda we enjoyed a cool breeze and fine views of the wetlands in I’lla de la Buda to the east and L’Alfacada Lagoon, to the west. Even the less than scantily-dressed tourists on the beach were visible.

Little Egret, Squacco Heron and Purple Heron in flight           
Photos: Tim Marshall

37. Sixteen Purple Swamphen were foraging in a small cultivated field and many of the marshland and wetland birds, already reported, were present. Avocet, Flamingo, 2 Ruff, 2 Great White Egret, Black-winged Stilt and Shelduck stood out. Purple Heron were a regular sighting. Sandwich Terns flew over the canal and Whiskered Terns were ever present.  We went down to the beach at Migjorn for our picnic and a sea watch. Most of us carefully avoided the nude sun bathers with our optics and instead focussed on the fishing boats, out at sea. Sandwich, Common and Whiskered Terns were there in numbers. The Gulls were Yellow-Legged. Strangely, as throughout the week, there were few Mediterranean Gulls. The sharp-eyed also picked out Balearic Shearwaters scything around the flocks.

38.  We attempted to reach Platjola Lagoon from the east but were thwarted by a road closure, official or not. The only way to this promising-looking area appears to be from the north, as there is no canal bridge from Eucaliptus, to the west. We had no time to investigate further but, whilst crossing the rice fields we saw Collared Pratincole, Curlew Sandpiper, Curlew, Greenshank, Lesser Kestrel, Sedge Warbler, Purple Heron, several Yellow Wagtails (iberiae) and lots of Squacco Heron, standing sentinel.

39. Our last port of call on the Delta was a return to the north-most observation platform at el Clot Lagoon, where we had previously had a rich haul. We listened carefully and picked up two Savi’s Warblers and then found them in the scopes. There were a number of the now familiar water fowl and the Heron roost remained active. Of greatest interest were the number of small passerines on passage and resting up in the marshes. We found Spotted Flycatcher, Melodious Warbler, 2 Redstart, 2 Willow Warbler and a female Pied Flycatcher, that rested on an open branch and gave us excellent views.

  

Female Pied Flycatcher                             Great Reed Warbler

Photos: Tim Marshall

We left reluctantly, to the sound of Great Reed Warblers ringing in our ears.

Friday 6th May

40. Today we left St Carles de la Rapita and headed towards Barcelona. The literature recommended a visit to Roca Falconera, part of the Garraf Natural Park on the coast at Garraf Marina. The Catalunya literature refers to a cliff at Ginesta Marina, but there is no cliff there. The rock is massive but after a difficult task navigating our way there, without a good map, we were disappointed to find few birds. The cliff seemed too exposed to the sun for marine bird nesting activity but we did see a nice pair of Blue Rock Thrush, a Sardinian Warbler and a Melodious Warbler. We planned to go on to the Remolar Filipines and La Ricarda-Ca l’Arana Reserves at Llobregat, on the remnant areas of wetland on the delta now occupied by Barcelona International Airport. Despite their small size, they are renowned for passage birds and regular sightings of rarities. We were thwarted by the need to deal with our battery receipt at the car hire office. Could we find it amongst the sprawling motorways and commercial buildings surrounding the airport, not without a rather better map than provided by the car hire company. We got there eventually and we all finally ended up at our hotel at Castelldefells, rather exhausted, having seen no more than the enticing signs to the Llobregat Reserves, during our search for the office. We finished with a pleasant walk to a food court, through a small park, where we added White Wagtail to the list and heard a Common Sandpiper. We spent a jolly evening laughing off the day’s misadventure.

41. Friday was frustrating, but the rest of the week was a great success, timed to capture a good mixture of wetland, sea and passage birds. Some birds, notably Black-Winged Kite and the Sandgrouse, eluded us, but an impressive list of 150 species, with lifers for some, was obtained. The week was characterised by good company and a harmonious atmosphere, as well as a variety of birds and habitats and our adventures in seeking them out. My thanks go to all who assisted, in whatever way and to our hosts, Nuria and Simon, at Hostal Agusti.

Complete Bird List attached