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A Report from birdtours.co.uk |
South West Spain, Sierra De Grazalema Natural Park, 22/9/02 - 2/10/02 ,
Detailed Itinerary
Apart from the journeys from and to home, all the following trips were on foot. Altogether we walked nearly 90
Miles. We averaged about 9 miles per day, the shortest walk about 7 miles, and the longest about 16 miles
Date |
Location |
Weather |
22/9 |
Flew to Gibralter ( Arrived 12.30 local time). Train from San Roque to Benaojan. Car to Grazalema |
Unsettled. Sunshine and some showers around Gibralter. Cloudier around Grazalema. Warm in sun |
23/9 |
From Grazalema to Zahara De Sierra |
Unsettled with bright periods and several light showers. Coolish but warm in sun |
24/9 |
Descended the Verde Gargante ( Green Gorge ) justoutside Zahara. |
Dry with sunny periods |
25/9 |
From Zahara to Prado Del Rey |
Dry with long sunny periods, although quite hazy p.m. Warm |
26/9 |
Prado Del Ray to El Bosque |
Dry with long sunny periods, although quite hazy p.m. Warm |
27/9 |
El Bosque to Grazalema |
Dry with long sunny periods. Warm |
28/9 |
Local walk around Grazalema |
Dry, sunny and warm |
29/9 |
Grazalema to Benaojan |
Dry, sunny and v. warm |
30/9 |
Benaojan to Ronda |
Dry, hazy sun and warm |
1/10 |
Ronda |
Cloudy, rain p.m. |
2/10 |
Journey Home |
Habitat
The Natural Park is very extensive and is a UNESCO biosphere reserve. It is a mountainous area with peaks rising above 4,000 ft. and a couple around Grazalema more than 5000 ft. high. There are steep cliffs, gorges, bare crags, valleys and extensive plateaus. At Zahara a large reservoir has been built.
Although being so close to the Mediterranean it is often hot and dry in summer, Grazalema has the highest annual rainfall in the whole of Spain (Average 2500 litres per year). This gives rise to a great variety of vegetation with extensive conifer, oak, and mixed forests, scrub, and cultivated olive groves, vegetables and pasture. Cacti, including prickly pear were common in lower areas. What were particularly interesting was the Pinsapar forest at Grazalema (The Pinsapo fir is a very rare Spanish fir which only grows on the wet and sunless north facing slopes), and the Cork Oak forests.
Birds
Apart from the variety and special species of the area, the sheer abundance of birds was a delight to experience. Wherever we were even when it was comparatively 'quiet' there were always birds present. At times particularly in the lower more open areas (farmland, fields, scrub etc.) there were very big flocks of finches and sparrows, together with large numbers of larks, chats, and buntings.
Visible migration was often evident with hirundines sometimes flying through in their thousands, and flycatchers being particularly common.
A lot of the summer migrants had left e.g. no Bee-eaters, Shrikes, or Rollers were seen. Some other birds were noticeable by their absence e.g. no Carrion Crows or Magpies. I've no doubt I missed many other birds as with the distances walked I could not spend long periods of time searching for elusive or shy birds.
Bird |
Comments |
Grey Heron |
2 seen flying near Zahara |
Cattle Egret |
Several seen around grazing cattle in fields outside Prado Del Ray |
White Stork |
c60 seen trying to gain height presumably to cross the Straits of Gibralter, whilst we were waiting for the train @ San Roque Station. 1 soaring with Griffon Vultures near Zahara. 10 seen migrating, whilst walking towards Montejaque. Others were seen still perching on their 'pile of sticks' nests from the train when returning to San Roque. |
Griffon Vulture |
This area is a real stronghold for Griffon Vultures. We saw them every day and often several were in view at any moment. On 25/9 there were at least 80 rising in a thermal above the 'Gargante Verde' near Zahara. There was a somewhat surreal moment when we stopped to have our picnic lunch under the shade of some trees by a stream in a typically remote area. Several Vultures started circling above us but because of the trees we could not actually see them, only their huge shadows passing over the adjacent fields and hillsides. It was a little unnerving! |
Short Toed Eagle |
At least 3 seen. Best view was of 1 patrolling a nearby ridge just outside Benaojan. |
Booted Eagle |
Several excellent views of pale morph adults, in particular from San Roque Station; just outside Zahara; and Ronda. |
Bonelli's Eagle |
Although a rare Eagle in Europe several pairs do breed in the Grazalema Natural Park and I thought there would be a good chance of seeing one. However I had nearly given up hope, when towards the end or our penultimate walk on 29th, whilst descending a dirt road to Montejaque between 2 barren rocky hillsides, a superb adult suddenly appeared on 1 side, being mobbed by dozens of Martins and Swallows. It glided above me to the other side, then stooped like a Peregrine, rose again, and finally soared behind a ridge. Wonderful! |
Honey Buzzard |
Several seen from San Roque station on migration |
Common Buzzard |
4 seen together late afternoon on 25th. As they do not breed in the area it is possible they were arriving to spend the winter here |
Sparrowhawk |
Several seen, and seem to be widespread. |
Goshawk |
2 definite sightings near the Pinsipar Forest. 1 was being mobbed by 2 Sparrowhawks, which helped to dispel any doubts as it was so much bigger than them! |
Lesser Kestrel |
2 including adult seen hunting insects, rather 'hobby like' in fields someway from Zahara |
Kestrel |
A few sightings, including one hovering above the Rock of Gibraltar |
Hobby |
1 seen presumably on migration. |
Red Legged Partridge |
Common in more open areas |
Yellow Legged Gull |
Lots around Gibralter |
Wood Pigeon |
Only a few seen |
Feral Pigeon |
Common in towns. |
Turtle Dove |
1 seen, presumably on migration. |
Little Owl |
1 standing on a low rock scrutinising us closely as we walked slowly by. |
Tawny Owl |
Several heard from the hotel near Prado Del Rey |
Alpine Swift |
Just 1 seen near the Verde Gargante |
Pallid Swift |
Again just 1 seen between El Bosque and Grazalema |
Hoopoe |
2 brief sightings |
Great Spotted Woodpecker |
Common in most wooded areas |
Green Woodpecker |
Common in slightly more open areas |
Wryneck |
1 seen well if briefly before it flew from an Olive Tree |
Crested Lark |
Both these species are reasonably common in this area and most of the time I could not distinguish between them! However I did get a few opportunities to study some at close quarters and satisfied myself that I had at least identified a Thekla Lark, which was my main concern. |
Thekla Lark |
|
Woodlark |
Encountered several times. Somewhat surprisingly most of them were singing as if it was Spring! |
Swallow |
Lots. Many migrating |
Red Rumped Swallow |
3 seen very well, preening on telegraph wires. |
House Martin |
Thousands. Some still breeding in the area. Others migrating through. |
Crag Martin |
Common in suitable areas. A lot in the gorge at Ronda. |
White Wagtail |
Some seen usually around towns. |
Yellow Wagtail |
A couple of parties seen, presumably migrating. |
Grey Wagtail |
Seen along all the faster flowing rivers, including in the gorge at Ronda. |
Wren |
Common and widespread |
Dunnock |
A few seen |
Robin |
Heard often in more woody areas, but not many seen. |
Redstart |
Some seen most days at lower levels |
Black Redstart |
Seen several times in higher rockier areas |
Black Wheatear |
A very striking bird. Surprisingly only seen just outside the lower end of Grazalema, and also one on a roof of a building in Zahara |
Stonechat |
Common in lower more open areas. |
Whinchat |
Only seen on 29th when 4 individual birds spotted, presumably on migration. |
Blue Rock Thrush |
2 sightings |
Mistle Thrush |
1 seen |
Blackbird |
Common |
Blackcap |
Common |
Garden Warbler |
A couple of sightings only |
Sardinian Warbler |
Common |
Whitethroat |
Only 1 seen |
Zitting Cisticola |
1 seen |
Willow Warbler |
A few sightings |
Chiff Chaff |
Seen / heard most days |
Cetti's Warbler |
Common in most of the damper areas. |
Firecrest |
Some excellent views of this lovely little bird, especially in the woods around Grazalema. |
Pied Flycatcher |
These were surprisingly common and quite a lot were seen every day, presumably stopping off to 'refuel' on migration. |
Spotted Flycatcher |
Far fewer than Pied Flycatchers. |
Blue Tit |
There is lots of ideal habitat for tits and not surprisingly often seen sometimes in very large mixed flocks. Great Tits appeared to be the most common. |
Great Tit |
|
Coal Tit |
|
Long Tailed Tit |
|
Crested Tit |
Seen well in the pine and fir woods around Grazalema |
Nuthatch |
Common in woods. |
Short Toed Treecreeper |
2 seen well. |
Chough |
Seen most days. Flocks of 50+ seen near Grazalema, Zahara, and in the Ronda Gorge |
Jay |
Common in wooded areas, although heard more often than seen. |
Spotless Starling |
Largish flocks coming to roost in the evening in all the towns. |
House Sparrow |
Very large flocks present especially near farms and towns |
Greenfinch |
Common |
Chaffinch |
Common |
Goldfinch |
Common. Some very large flocks of 500+ often seen |
Linnet |
Common |
Serin |
Common |
Cirl Bunting |
Common |
Corn Bunting |
Common |
Rock Bunting |
Only 1 seen, but a good view of 1 on rocky outcrop outside Grazalema |
Other Wildlife
Species |
Comments |
Mammals |
|
Spanish Ibex |
Seen on 2 days. Firstly on 27/9, after passing through the Pinsapar Forest a male was seen high above us on top of a ridge. The following day, whilst walking the Sierra del Endrinal from Grazalema, we had very good views of 3 different small groups, comprising mainly of females and young. This included a superb male looking down on us from a rocky outcrop, not far above us. |
Rabbit |
Just 1 seen |
Bats |
Seen most evenings, but not able to identify any species. |
Reptiles & Amphibians |
|
Wall Lizard |
|
Gecko |
|
Froglets |
|
Butterflies |
|
Brimstone |
|
Cleopatra |
|
'Grizzled' Skipper sp. |
|
Southern Speckled Wood |
|
Southern Meadow Brown |
|
Red Admiral |
|
Bath White |
|
Southern Small White |
|
Grayling sp. |
|
Small Copper ? |
|
Swallowtail |
|
2 x Blue sp |
|
Other Insects |
|
Preying Mantis |
|
Mantis sp. |
Brown, wider bodied than Preying Mantis, devouring a cricket |
Grasshoppers |
Abundant including Blue Flash Winged |
Dung Beetle |
|
Devil's Coachman |
|
Dragonflies |
Mainly Hawkers present |
Carpenter Bee |
|
Humming Bird Hawk Moth |
|
Hornet |
|
Large Wolf Spider ? |
Large spider found under a piece of cork oak |
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