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Extremadura (Spain), 24th March-April 1st 2005,
You know, the Imperial Eagle breeds just opposite the car park!!!
Residence
First night camping rough , then Motorway Motel El Cruce, 10 kms north of
Trujillo between la Aldea and Torrecillas. Had not booked anything in advance,
so it was very difficult to find something else. 24 euros per night, noisy
(24h service.), food quite expensive for what it was. But room, bathroom and
bed ok, better than sleeping in a car on a rainy night. Excellent food (4-course
dinner with wine, coffee etc. for 30 euros) in ****Melia Hotel /Trujillo during
week-ends and holidays. A la carte slightly more expensive.
Maps
Guia Campsa 2000 (1: 300.000) has turned out to be the best. 20 euros for the whole of Spain is a good investment. Alas, the old 200.000 Firestone maps are out of print! But beware! There are (even yellow, numbered) roads on those maps that do either NOT exist, or else are only usable for jeeps, or which are private, fenced country tracks! Anyway, ALL species can be seen from asphalted roads; no need to trespass ! In the steppe areas many tracks that used to be feasible are in a rotten state, quite a few famous signs mentioned in old birders' guides (La Calderuela, La Encinilla.) have disappeared. But the Monfrague park road has just been entirely re-tarmaced.
Introductory remarks (same as in my report on 2001/03):
Having nothing special to "tick" off in the Extremadura area, my main aim
was to get GOOD views of certain raptors and steppe birds. As 99% of the area
is fenced in (NEVER cross a fence with cattle behind; bulls and sheepdogs
can be VERY uncooperative!), many birds have a very short flight distance.
Some Great bustards (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe) were only 200 m from
the road, whereas in Hungary, they will fly off when they spot an unknown
car 500 m away. Sitting unobtrusively in the county for hours is often more
rewarding than zigzagging around for a new tick. (I DID see the eye colour
of a Black-shouldered Kite (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar) !)
I will not disclose precise locations when there is an accessible nest of
an endangered species. One example: one day, there were some British birders
picnicking beside their car in the Monroy area, virtually under a Black-shouldered
Kite (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar)'s nest, the exact location of which
had been unwisely published on the internet and a British guide book. Unfortunately,
the bird had the bad idea to build its nest in the only unfenced area of the
whole district, not far from an unsurfaced but driveable country road. SUCH
SENSITIVE INFORMATION SHOULD BE WITHHELD ! There are plenty of other (fenced)
places where one can see these birds ! Obviously, the birders had chased the
Kite away at did not see it! Serves them right!
During this week, sunrise was at 7.55 - 7.45 h, sunset 20.35 - 20.45 h, so
"noon" at about 14.25 h summer time. Few raptors fly before 10 a.m.
Weather and season:
During the first days, the weather was still a bit cool, quite sunny but with odd showers, cool with more persistent rain on 28th, then becoming much warmer, dry and less windy. There were still winter flocks of up to 170 Little Bustards (Outarde canepetière) (Zwergtrappe), lots of Hawfinches (Grosbec casse-noyaux) (Kernbeißer) and roosts of up to 160 Azure-winged Magpies (Pie bleue) (Blauelster). Nightingales (Rossignol philomèle) (Nachtigall) and Bee-Eaters (Guêpier d'Europe) (Bienenfresser) only arrived on 29th/30th March.
Highlights of the trip
Wed 23rd:
.arrived at 11pm in the El Planeron steppe reserve between Codo and Quinto/Belchite
(E of Zaragoza), just after a thundery shower when the moon was coming out
again. Found the place (about 1 mile after the FIRST "El Planeron" sign after
Quinto) in the darkness, and, sure enough, when I stopped the engine, a Dupont's
Lark (Sirli de Dupont) (Dupontlerche) was singing a few yards away.
A Stone Curlew (Oedicnème criard) (Triel) kept me awake some time.
Thu 24th:
Nice looks of the lark on a heap of dry earth in the morning at 8h winter
time. Heard a pair of Chough (Crave à bec rouge) (Alpenkrähe) and a
few Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Ganga cata) (Spiessflughuhn) + Black-bellied
Sandgrouse (Ganga unibande) (Sandflughuhn).
Arriving in Extremadura after heavy Easter Thursday traffic, had the first
Booted Eagle (Aigle botté) (Zwergadler) near Oropesa. Nice flocks of
Spanish Sparrows (Moineau espagnol) (Weidensperling) near the hotel
on the La Aldea road. Drove on to Monroy and had 21 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
(Ganga cata) (Spießflughuhn) near km 14. First 2 Black Vultures (Vautour
moine) (Mönchsgeier). Went back to Belen/NE Trujillo where I met my old
friends Georg Sennert and Helmut Klein from Germany. Saw nearly 30 Great Bustard
(Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe), a Black-shouldered Kite (Élanion
blanc) (Gleitaar) and the first Great spotted Cuckoos (Coucou geai)
(Häherkuckuck). My friends were to sleep at Melia Hotel/Trujillo. Luxurious
but 85 euros pp!
Fri 25th :
Met again in Belen steppe, where we had 46 Great Bustard (Outarde barbue)
(Großtrappe), some displaying, 3 flocks of up to 90 Little bustards (Outarde
canepetière) (Zwergtrappe), 2 Pallid Swifts (Martinet pâle) (Fahlsegler),
a Booted Eagle (Aigle botté) (Zwergadler), the 2 Great Spotted Cuckoos.and
discovered a Black-shouldered Kite's (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar) nest
in the Dehesa on the southern side. The birds were heavily disturbed by a
pair of Raven (Grand Corbeau) (Kolkrabe) that tried to land on their
tree. Then the vultures started to arrive. We counted about 100 Griffon Vultures
(Vautour fauve) (Gänsegeier) + 15 Black Vultures (Vautour moine)
(Mönchsgeier), all flying low over our heads to a place where they expected
to be some food. Terrific sight!
Back to the La Aldea-Monroy road. Near km 14/15, we got 45 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
(Ganga cata) (Spießflughuhn), 1 or 2 imm. Golden Eagles (Aigle royal)
(Steinadler) - probably 2 different birds, 2 Booted Eagles (Aigle botté)
(Zwergadler), a few Little bustards (Outarde canepetière) (Zwergtrappe),
10+ Azure-winged Magpies (Pie bleue) (Blauelster) in the Dehesa (where
we heard Rock Sparrow (Moineau soulcie) (Steinsperling)), Southern
Grey Shrike (Pie-grièche méridionale) (Raubwürger Unterart meridionalis),
Woodchat Shrike (Pie-grièche à tête rousse) (Rotkopfwürger), Red-rumped
Swallow (Hirondelle rousseline) (Rötelschwalbe) and 1000+ Spotless
Starlings (Étourneau unicolore) (Einfarbstar).
Sat 26th:
Went to the Monfrague National Park (too many people there at Easter, especially
at the Penafalcon Rock car park, but we had no choice.). Had the usual Black
Stork (Cigogne noire) (Schwarzstorch) nest there, Blue Rock Thrush
(Monticole bleu) (Blaumerle), 2-3 Booted Eagle (Aigle botté)
(Zwergadler), scores of Vultures, including 2 Egyptian Vultures (Vautour
percnoptère) (Schmutzgeier), Rock Bunting (Bruant fou) (Zippammer),
etc. During our drive through the park 7-8 Short-toed Eagles (Circaète
Jean-le-Blanc) (Schlangenadler) and 25+ Azure-Winged Magpies (Pie bleue)
(Blauelster). A Black Vulture's (Vautour moine) (Mönchsgeier) nest
near the Mirador de la Bascula. Just before the Portilla de Tietar, by the
2nd Black Stork (Cigogne noire) (Schwarzstorch)'s nest, Helmut spotted
an Otter (Loutre). Big surprise at the Portilla: this year was THE big one:
there was a Spanish Imperial Eagle's (Aigle ibérique) (Spanischer Kaiseradler)
nest in a large Cork Oak tree, less than 100 yds. to the right of the Vulture
colony! Magnificent views of both birds, especially some dog fights with several
vultures AND a Golden eagle (Aigle royal) (Steinadler) that had dared
to sit on one of the peaks. 1 Peregrine (Faucon pèlerin) (Wanderfalke)
flew by, and the usual Eagle Owl (Grand-duc d'Europe) (Uhu) had 4 big
chicks; the adult being very aggressive towards its Vulture neighbours! Subalpine
Warblers (Fauvette passerinette) (Weißbart-Grasmücke) chatting in the
shrubs. Flocks of Rock Doves (Pigeon biset) (Felsentaube) mixed with
domestic pigeons fly by regularly. One Red-legged Partridge (Perdrix rouge)
(Rothuhn) came up to me sitting by the road, making odd sounds for about 10
min., not minding me moving arms and legs. Just as if he wanted me to leave
HIM alone.
Evening in the Belen steppes with 145 Little Bustards (Outarde canepetière)
(Zwergtrappe), 20 Great Bustards (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe), both
Black-shouldered Kites (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar) and Great spotted
Cuckoos (Coucou geai) (Häherkuckuck).
Sun 27th:
Before sunrise 160 Azure-winged Magpies (Pie bleue) (Blauelster) in
the Dehesa E of La Aldea. 3 Great spotted Cuckoos (Coucou geai) (Häherkuckuck)
at km 10 of Monroy road. Great show around km 14/15: 5 Black-bellied Sandgrouse
(Ganga unibande) (Sandflughuhn), 28 pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Ganga
cata) (Spießflughuhn), 4 Great Bustard (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe),
32 Little Bustard (Outarde canepetière) (Zwergtrappe), 2 Little Owl
(Chevêche d'Athéna) (Steinkauz), 1 Golden Eagle (Aigle royal)
(Steinadler), 6 Rock Sparrow (Moineau soulcie) (Steinsperling) (on
the small rocks in the grass), 1 Black-eared Wheatear (Traquet oreillard)
(Mittelmeer-Steinschmätzer), 3 Booted Eagles (Aigle botté) (Zwergadler),
2-3 Short-toed Eagles (Circaète Jean-le-Blanc) (Schlangenadler), about
10 Montagu's Harriers (Busard cendré) (Wiesenweihe) at km 18. From
there road to Sta.Marta de Magasca. Picnic 3 miles before the village in the
Dehesa. 1 (or 2, maybe 3 ??) Bonelli's Eagles (Aigle de Bonelli) (Habichtsadler),
40 Hawfinches (Grosbec casse-noyaux) (Kernbeißer), 5-6 Azure-winged
Magpies (Pie bleue) (Blauelster), 1 Black Stork (Cigogne noire)
(Schwarzstorch), Woodchat Shrike (Pie-grièche à tête rousse) (Rotkopfwürger).
4 Red-rumped Swallow (Hirondelle rousseline) (Rötelschwalbe) by the
creek with Kingfisher (Martin-pêcheur d'Europe) (Eisvogel) and 3 Little
Ringed Plovers (Petit Gravelot) (Flußregenpfeifer), + another 2 (mating)
Great Spotted Cuckoos (Coucou geai) (Häherkuckuck) when leaving the
Dehesa N of Sta Marta. I've never seen so many; they find caterpillars on
the ground at an incredible rate. Must be a bumper crop year for them!
25 Great Bustards (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe) 1 mile before the Trujillo-Caceres
road. We take the pothole country lane towards Hocino de Arriba and count
7 Montagu's Harriers (Busard cendré) (Wiesenweihe), 6 Little Bustard
(Outarde canepetière) (Zwergtrappe), 4 Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Ganga
unibande) (Sandflughuhn) + 13 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Ganga cata)
(Spießflughuhn). That's 50 Sandgrouse in 1 day. But more to come.
Back home , I got the news that there had been a juv. Northern Bald Ibis (Ibis
chauve) (Waldrapp (Ibis chauve)) on Trujillo Castle during those
last 4 days. I survived the frustration, having seen 100+ last April.
Mon 28th:
My friends leave me in the company of Henning and Manfred whom I met at their
hotel the night before. They arrive just in time to see 16 Black-bellied Sandgrouse
(Ganga unibande) (Sandflughuhn) at km 14 of the Monroy road + 4 Great
Bustard (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe) and 12 Montagu's Harriers (Busard
cendré) (Wiesenweihe) at km 18 by the Sta Marta T-junction. In spite of
persistent drizzle and rainy patches, we spot 9 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Ganga
cata) (Spießflughuhn) at km 21 of the Monroy road, as well as 3 (or even
5) Great-Spotted Cuckoos (Coucou gris) (Kuckuck). They are everywhere
this year! 10 Great Bustards (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe), 4 Black-bellied
Sandgrouse (Ganga unibande) (Sandflughuhn) and another Great spotted
Cuckoo (Coucou geai) (Häherkuckuck) on the Hocino de Arriba road.
Tue 29th:
I spend most of the day by the Spanish Imperial Eagle's (Aigle ibérique)
(Spanischer Kaiseradler) nest at Portilla de Tietar. First Nightingale (Rossignol
philomèle) (Nachtigall) singing, still the crazy Red-legged Partridge
(Perdrix rouge) (Rothuhn) by the roadside. 2 Short-toed Eagles (Circaète
Jean-le-Blanc) (Schlangenadler) (are they going to nest again near the
vulture colony?), the ad. Eagle Owl (Grand-duc d'Europe) (Uhu) basking
in the morning sun on a tree, more Subalpine Warblers (Fauvette passerinette)
(Weißbart-Grasmücke), 2 Egyptian Vulture (Vautour percnoptère) (Schmutzgeier),
1 Black Vulture (Vautour moine) (Mönchsgeier), Red-rumped Swallows
(Hirondelle rousseline) (Rötelschwalbe), 4 Azure-Winged Magpies (Pie
bleue) (Blauelster). The eagles still incubate, no sign of anything hatching.
Lovely dogfights with Griffon Vultures (Vautour fauve) (Gänsegeier).
I meet Bernard and Anne, two former school colleagues and teachers of my younger
son! Small world! They see the Otter (Loutre), I miss it again! Later, they
had Purple Gallinule (Talève sultane) (Purpurhuhn) in the marshes between
Saucedilla and Almaraz. I had taken another route and missed those, too!
Evening in Belen/Trujillo. 3 groups of 31 Great Bustard (Outarde barbue)
(Großtrappe), at least 30 Little Bustard (Outarde canepetière) (Zwergtrappe),
both Black-Shouldered Kites (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar) (mating ---
did the Raven (Grand Corbeau) (Kolkrabe) finally get to their clutch???),
14+ Lesser Kestrels (Faucon crécerellette) (Rötelfalke) sitting on
Oak trees + chasing insects, 3 more Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Ganga unibande)
(Sandflughuhn), an uncommon sight in this place.
Wed 30th
Back to km 14 of the Monroy road at dawn. 31 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Ganga
cata) (Spießflughuhn) are sitting near the road in spite of a Golden eagle
(Aigle royal) (Steinadler) passing not far away. I wait for Bernard
and Anne for 1 hour, not daring to get back to the car and fetch my photo
equipment. They arrive 20 min. before the birds leave, probably frightened
by a Montagu's Harrier (Busard cendré) (Wiesenweihe). We see 3 Great
Bustards (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe), a lifer for my colleagues,
and 3 Stone Curlews (Oedicnème criard) (Triel) at km 15.
Then we cross to the Belen steppe. The first 5 Bee-Eaters (Guêpier d'Europe)
(Bienenfresser) come along, 1 more imm.Golden Eagle (Aigle royal) (Steinadler)
flies by, and we spot 5 groups of 37 Great Bustard (Outarde barbue)
(Großtrappe). One of 2 Short-toed Eagles (Circaète Jean-le-Blanc) (Schlangenadler)
catches 2 small snakes within 5 minutes and gobbles them up like spaghetti
in mid-air. I see another enormous (Montpellier's?) Snake cross the road.
The sudden heat has made them come out of their hiding, it seems. 3 Lesser
Kestrel (Faucon crécerellette) (Rötelfalke) in the Dehesa with both
Black-Shouldered Kites (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar), and about 90 Griffon
Vultures (Vautour fauve) (Gänsegeier) spiralling with a few Black Vultures
(Vautour moine) (Mönchsgeier) above a place where farmers leave cattle
carcasses.
About 40 Lesser Kestrels (Faucon crécerellette) (Rötelfalke) above
Trujillo Old Town but no Bald Ibis.!
Evening starts SE of Sta.Marta (fork right 10 kms after Trujillo) with 2 Booted
Eagles (Aigle botté) (Zwergadler) at km 2, a Great Spotted Cuckoo (Coucou
geai) (Häherkuckuck) at km 4 with another "kettle" of 80+ Griffon Vultures
(Vautour fauve) (Gänsegeier) behind.
NW of Sta Marta, at km 21 of the Monroy road, about 50 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
(Ganga cata) (Spießflughuhn), a few of which were sitting close to
the road, 2 Stone Curlew (Oedicnème criard) (Triel), as well as 9 Black-Bellied
Sandgrouse (Ganga unibande) (Sandflughuhn)+ 7 Pin-tailed at km 14.
After sunset, 20+50 Azure-winged Magpies (Pie bleue) (Blauelster) in
the Dehesa just before La Aldea.
Thu 31st
Only 1 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Ganga cata) (Spießflughuhn) at km 22
of Monroy road. In the Rio Almonte valley, just south of Monroy, I finally
find my first Spanish Black Wheatear (Traquet rieur) (Trauersteinschmätzer)
since 1980, about 200 yds. upstream, singing in the rocks on the northern
side. Some Azure-winged Magpies (Pie bleue) (Blauelster) there, too.
North of Monroy, the most publicized Black-shouldered Kite (Élanion blanc)
(Gleitaar) in Spain is still doing surprisingly well. Strange enough, there
was NOBODY at the car park! (I once failed to find any parking space because
there were so/too many birders there.). Again, a flock of Spanish Sparrow
(Moineau espagnol) (Weidensperling) there. Actually, I entirely forgot
to note them all; they seemed to be prersent in high numbers in all adequate
areas this year.
3 miles west of Torrejon I first spot 1 imm. Spanish imperial Eagle (Aigle
ibérique) (Spanischer Kaiseradler) on a pylon, then 1 ad.+ 1 imm. a few
pylons further east. At the Portilla de Tietar, the Spanish Imperial eagles
(Aigle ibérique) (Spanischer Kaiseradler) were still present, the male
bringing a small prey to the nest, but it is the female that ate it; no chicks
yet! Good views of the ad. Eagle Owl (Grand-duc d'Europe) (Uhu) with
2 of its 4 chicks. Still 1 (or 2?) Black Stork (Cigogne noire) (Schwarzstorch)
and 2 Short-toed Eagles (Circaète Jean-le-Blanc) (Schlangenadler).
Lots of Alpine Swift (Martinet à ventre blanc) (Alpensegler) at the
Tajo bridge.
Back to km 14 of Monroy road, I find several flocks of 64 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
(Ganga cata) (Spießflughuhn), +32 more at kms 18 and 22, where I also
get 10 Black-bellied Sandgrouse (Ganga unibande) (Sandflughuhn). I
hear the first Quail (Caille des blés) (Wachtel) (unless it was imitated
by one of the innumerable big Calandra Larks (Alouette calandre) (Kalanderlerche).)
A great day: more than 100 Sandgrouse!!! One may wonder why authors like John
Muddeman virtually ignore this little but vast bit of birding Paradise..
Fri 1st April
Before heading home, another short look at Monroy Rd. km 14, since it is only
a 20 min. drive from the hotel... I am not disappointed. In a thistle field,
I discover 8 Great Bustards (Outarde barbue) (Großtrappe) AND 91 Pin-tailed
Sandgrouse (Ganga cata) (Spießflughuhn)! Plus the usual Zitting Cisticolas
(Cisticole des joncs) (Cistensänger) at kms 12 and 14.
Road north uneventful, no Black-winged Kites (Élanion blanc) (Gleitaar)
north of Oropesa, just a few white storks (Cigogne blanche) (Weißstorch)
with cattle egrets (Héron garde-boufs) (Kuhreiher) behind a tractor
(and 5 Guardia Civil cars on one of the loneliest country roads one could
imagine.). Arrive at 6 p.m. summer time in the El Planeron reserve east of
Codo/Belchite. In spite of the strong winds, 1 Dupont's Lark (Sirli de
Dupont) (Dupontlerche) is already singing. Obviously invisible..! Lesser
short-toed Larks (Alouette pispolette) (Stummellerche) + Calandra Larks
(Alouette calandre) (Kalanderlerche) common. 1 Black-winged Stilt (Échasse
blanche) (Stelzenläufer) with 4 green sandpipers (Chevalier culblanc)
(Waldwasserläufer) in the large pond. And I find 3 pairs of Chough (Crave
à bec rouge) (Alpenkrähe), 1 in the old sheep stable 400 yds from the
T-junction, one by the Lark spot and the third in a sand quarry a mile further
east. At least 4 migrating Marsh Harriers (Busard des roseaux) (Rohrweihe)
as well as a few Stock doves (Pigeon colombin) (Hohltaube) between
Belchite and Gelsa. When driving through the flat Lomaza hills between Quinto
and Gelsa, a juv. Golden Eagle (Aigle royal) (Steinadler), harassed
by a Montagu's Harrier (Busard cendré) (Wiesenweihe), is the closing
curtain of a 4600 km journey with no lifers but full of unforgettable moments.
I'll be back!
P.S.: I forgot to write about a few common species like Hoopoe (Huppe fasciée) (Wiedehopf), Thekla Lark (Cochevis de Thékla) (Theklalerche), Crested Lark (Cochevis huppé) (Haubenlerche), Wood Lark (Alouette lulu) (Heidelerche), Crag Martin (Hirondelle de rochers) (Felsenschwalbe), Southern Grey Shrike (Pie-grièche méridionale) (Raubwürger Unterart meridionalis), Spotless Starlings (Étourneau unicolore) (Einfarbstar), Sardinian Warblers (Fauvette mélanocéphale) (Samtkopf-Grasmücke), Cirl Buntings (Bruant zizi) (Zaunammer) etc.; those birds can be encountered daily in a variety of habitats.
Sorry for my French and German speaking friends, but English was the obvious solution!
Lutz Lücker - 5, Fort-Ecluse - Ch-1213 Petit-Lancy/Geneva
- Switzerland
Tel/fax 0041-22-792.84.62
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